"I live near my home mountain, it's the Matterhorn. I think it is the most beautiful mountain in the world"
Born in the shadow of the Matterhorn to a family of mountaineers, Herve is one of the world's most passionate and accomplished alpinists. The mountains are in his blood, it is in the mountains that he feels most 'at home' and his passion for life is defined by always looking for the most absolute mountain experience.
Inspired by the mountain of his birth, he began his career on the Matterhorn and realised a big dream when he made the first solo ascent of the Matterhorn South Directissima, as well as opening and repeating many other prestigious routes. He became expert on all alpine terrain and sought the most challenging ascents - preferring new routes and making incredible solo speed ascents. He continued a long family tradition to become the fourth generation of mountain guides - choosing a profession that allowed him to remain close to his beloved mountains.
Seeking new horizons beyond the Alps, Herve's passion has taken him worldwide - Patagonia, Pakistan - new routes, solo ascents and untouched summits. His truly incredible achievements have commanded world-wide respect. But beyond the technical challenge of Alpine and Himalayan summits, Herve has extended his mountaineering goals to embrace the challenge of helping the communities of the Shimshal, Pakistan. In 2010 he gave himself as a climbing guide instructor and rescue expert to the Shimshal Climbing School in order to help local porters (men and women) improve both their technique and safety.
Herve lives and breathes the freedom of the nature and the mountains which are his inspiration. For Herve mountains represent adventure and exploration, his motivation wells from his deep longing to explore untouched lands and unclimbed mountains.
Birthdate: 21st December 1977
Home: Valtournenche (Aosta Valley), Italy
Favourite destination: Pakistan, Patabonia
Favourite Mountain: Matterhorn
Favourite Book: Shantaram
Favourite Films: La vita è Bella - Roberto Benigni
Favourite food: Bread, nutella and Spaghetti with Bottarga
Greatest Fear: to no longer be able to go to the mountains
How I relax: being creative
Philosophy: to be alive
What inspires you? my father
Words to live by: Emotion, dream, fear, joy, family, reality, friends, success, failure.
Summary of main ascents:
Monte Rosa 4634 m - South-west face – New route – Viaggio nella Memoria – ED
Mont Blanc 4810 m - South Face or Brouillard side – New route – La Classica Moderna - ED
Matterhorn/Cervino 4478 m - South Face - New route solo ascent – 1200 m – level…ABO
China – Shaklsgam Valley – First ascent in alpine style of Venus Peak 6300 m – ED North/Ridge
Cervino/Matterhorn 4478 m – South Face – new route – Barmasse Couloir 1200 m – M___ ABO
January 2010 – February 2010
Pakistan Shimshal Valley. First ascent of several ice falls. Creation and execution of courses on safety and progression to porters (men and women) of Shimshal at the Shimshal Climbing School (school born from the collaboration of Qudrat, Simone Moro and Hervé Barmasse, with sponsorship by The North Face, Kong and Camp).
Patagonia – Hielo Continental Sur – new traverse route from East to West on the third largest glacier on Earth.
China – Miky Sel 6250 m. – First ascent of the mountain in alpine style
Pakistan – Beka Brakai Chhok, 6940m. – First ascent of the mountain in alpine style
Patagonia – Cerro Piergiorgio – First ascent of the Northwest face: “La Ruta de lo Hermano" (grade 6b+/A3, 1000 m)
Matterhorn – First solo ascent of the “Spigolo dei Fiori" (Machetto) route
Matterhorn – First solo ascent and first repetition of the South face via the Super-direct route
February – March 2006
Patagonia – Cerro San Lorenzo (3706 m) – New route on the north face: “Caffé Cortado" (ED, 1200 m)
Patagonia – Cerro Poincenot (3201 m)
Patagonia – Aguja Guillaumet (2571 m)
Matterhorn – First solo ascent of the Deffeyes route (ED, 1300 m) in under four hours
June – July 2005
Pakistan – Chogolisa Shield – New route: "Up and Down" (grade 6c/7a and A1, 800 m)
Pakistan – New mixed ice route on an unclimbed peak: "Fast and Furious" (700 m)
Pakistan – First complete solo ascent of an unclimbed peak (approx. 6000 m) on the Farol Peak ridge
Pakistan – Naysar Brakk (approx. 5200 m) via the "English Route"
Dent d’Herin – West Face – First ascent of the "Ammazza Geko" route (grade IV+/5, 800 m)
Pakistan – Sheep Peak (6300 m) – new route
Pakistan – Chogolisa Shield (approx. 5700 m) – New alpine-style "Luna Caprese" route (grade 6c max, 1000 m)
Matterhorn – South Face – First winter repetition of the "Padre Pio Prega per Noi" route (grade 6c/7a max, 1000 m)
Pizzo Badile – South Face – New route: "Ringhio" (grade 6c obbl., 370 m)
Dent d’Herin – West Face – First ascent of the "Petit Lumignon" route (grade IV/4, 800 m)
Matterhorn – South Face – First solo ascent and third complete repetition of the "Casarotto-Grassi" route (ED, 1300 m)
Breithorn (Monte Rosa Massif) – West Face – New mixed route: "Via del Freind" (ED, 600 m)
Matterhorn – South Face – New route: "Per Nio" (grade 6a+ obbl., ED/ 350 m)
Paolo Consiglio Award, 2005
Paolo Consiglio Award, 2006
Paolo Consiglio Award, 2008
Grolla d’Oro Award, 2007.
Award SAT 2010.
Award G. Monzino 2010.
Paolo Consiglio Award, 2010